Friday, March 28, 2014

THE FULL IRISH












I have great news. Neither Rick not I have been killed driving on the left hand side of the road. Rick is a natural at this. He is left handed and Ireland seems to be his natural habitat.

 


Well, enough chit chat. The bikes are running and my bike needs some work yet. The guy who owned it before me was an engineer of some sort. So there are wires running everywhere. It will be necessary to clip a few because I think they are draining the battery. I love problems money can solve.

 

My trip to Kinsdale was grueling. There was no leg that was bad. But I got to Shannon at 5:45 am, and was only able to get a bus at 8:50. So it was another 4 hours to Kinsdale, just south of Cork. I was met by Mrs. Murphy, the owner of the B&B we are stating at. As I was getting my 120 lbs of luggage off the bus it started to rain ice. Miserable. The weather has been cold with itermitant showers. However, the gear works pretty well and both of us are dry.

 

The B&B is called Sunrise B&B, Kilcawha, Kinsale, Co. Cork. Phone  + 021 4772431. We pay 35 Euros a night each (70 together) for a really nice big room, and great breakfast. The bikes are safe here too. Lots of parking.

 


I had a bit of a problem with my luggage. TSA searched it and confiscated my Coleman camp stove as contraband. There had been no fuel in it for years and I dried it out for weeks before packing. Anyway it is gone. But they also took the instructions for my panniers. So I was able to get new material from Roger at Caribou Cases in pdf. I was completely freaked because I thought TSA had also taken some of the parts. I lucked out; and it was all there.

 
 


My computer is dying so I have to cut this short. Next post will be Motofeirme ( moto farm in Irish) featuring Martin Hurley the proprietor.

Sunday, March 23, 2014

Вы говорите по-русски? [Can you speak Russian?]




For the past seven months I have been studying Russian. Russian is the lingua franca of Eastern Europe and Central Asia. After searching around I concluded that only the University of Nebraska at Omaha had a class that met my time schedule and was affordable. As it turns out I was very lucky indeed.
 
I had purchased some Russian language instruction CDs to listen to whilst on the treadmill doing the gym thing. But when I showed up at class I found that I could not differentiate the subtle sounds present in much of the language. So I sat right up front and tried as best I could to catch the endings. It was a humbling experience as I desperately tried to match spoken sounds to the Cyrillic alphabet I was learning simultaneously. 
Professor Novikov, noted author and adventurer Fritz, and best Russian student ever Harrison

After a week I concluded that my wife and children might, just might, be correct in their assessment, which they had been hammering at me for the last five years. “Dad – you need  hearing aids”. Oh the devastation! The ultimate symbol of geezer hood. The dreaded hearing aid.
So I went to the audiologist to see if indeed that was the problem. It was. Apparently I have been a bit hard on the ears over my life. And I was pretty deaf in the left ear, and getting there fast in the right ear. The hearing limitation would make it very difficult to learn Russian without some enhancement.
 
The short version is this: I bought hearing aids, and my Russian professor, Tatyana Novikov, was very supportive and understanding. I must have asked her to repeat words, sentences and phrases hundreds of times. And she did it so I could learn. 
 
I should also note that Professor Novikov is an excellent teacher. When the class first started out we had about 27 people signed up. After about 2 classes I concluded that Professor Novikov had been teaching Russian to students with no Slavic language background for a long time. Methodically and patiently she led us through the course. I learn languages very rapidly (when I can hear). Russian is difficult. In fact, I was longing for the good old days of Caesar’s Gaelic Wars. At least I could read the alphabet. 
 
I also got lucky and found a tutor. My tutor is Ksenya Feyordova, a 16 year old Russian exchange student at Westside High School. Every Tuesday or Thursday I would spend an hour or so with her just reading aloud or going over numbers, colors, and some of the grammar. It was very helpful because I got the one on one attention I needed due to my hearing problem. Ksenya is from Novgorad; and if time and circumstances permit I would like to visit her home on this trip. 
 
I am far from fluent in Russian, but I know a lot more than I did seven months ago. On my last trip I decided that I would spend time building my Spanish language skills. My logic was and is that if I can speak the language I can always find the parts and someone to fix the motorcycle. But if my skills are all mechanical, I cannot even ask directions. Besides, I need to be able to read road signs, menus, and official notices in Russian on this trip. So that means learning the Cyrillic alphabet at a minimum.
 
The best part about learning Russian at UNO is that I was a 63 year old deaf guy slugging my way through with 19 year olds on the same journey. My classmates were a bit taken aback at first because I was far and away much older than any of them. And I wished I had their spongy brains to absorb all the new language skills. But I got to know some of them very well and I count them among my friends. I invited the whole class to my going away party. 
 
What I also learned is that it is difficult to learn a new language when one is old. I would say anytime a person is over 40 she is going to have a tough time. And it does not matter if the person already speaks a couple languages. I just do not think the mature brain absorbs the sounds and vocabulary as rapidly as a youthful brain. I do not know if this type of brain exercise staves off dementia, but it cannot hurt. 
 

Friday, March 21, 2014

SNOOKERED AGAIN


 
 
 
 
 
Some of you reading this blog will not know the very colorful, yet terrifying, history of my motorcycling. So I am going to relate the tales so that you will fully understand how KLIM sold me a piece of junk. Well, maybe not junk in the sense that I have to just throw it out, but gear that  is only suitable for warm weather use; in my opinion.

As a small child I was resilient when I would occasionally go over the handlebars of my bike. I would have nothing more to show for it than the scraped forehead and cinders embedded in my palms. As I aged I realized I did not bounce back. I took what is euphemistically referred to as the “dead cat bounce”.  I am the cat.

When I took my adventure journey to Tierra Del Fuego I bought the best First Gear pants and jacket they made. I thought the jacket looked dorky. And the overpants were baggy and a bit ill fitting. But the First Gear stuff was and is absolutely waterproof and comes with insulated liners; and the jacket liner is waterproof and suitable for casual wear. The stuff worked great and served me well. I managed to destroy it all in two steps.

On a trip back from Ogallala, Nebraska in August 2010 with my buddy Jim Dingman (readers will find that Ogallala and Eat The Big Pig seem to be the common denominator of my woes) it was over 102F rolling down I-80. So I strapped my First Gear Jacket to my rear rack. I noticed nothing until about 2 weeks later when I went to put on the jacket and found that I could not put my right arm in the sleeve because it had been melted. Yep! I let the arm flap around in front of the exhaust some way and destroyed the jacket.

So l went in search of a new jacket. First Gear just could not leave well enough alone and changed the sizing on their jackets. So I bought a Kilimanjaro jacket; and it was warm and dry just like my TPG jacket had formerly been. And besides, I still had my armored pants. You just know something bad is coming. Don’t you?

Well, in August 2011 I was riding a sweet F800GS down I-80 on my way to….. Now wait a minute. I will give you one guess. Right you are! I was riding to Ogallala and the Big Pig again when the bike went into a tank slapper wobble and crashed on I-80 at 75 mph. I had on an HJC helmet, my trusty First Gear TPG pants, and my damn near new Kilimanjaro jacket.

So, when I was done being rolled down the Interstate I got up and turned off my bike, which had been pretty much destroyed, but still running. You read that correctly. I got up. Then I lay down and waited for the ambulance to come get me.

Well the guys in the ambulance were all worried that I would die and such. I guess people falling off motorcycles on the Interstate do not generally do well; and, they figured I would be no different. My helmet and gear had some bad scrapes, but was all intact. The heat from skidding about 200 yards down the asphalt had migrated through the armor and melted the inner nylon on the jacket and pants - to me. The EMTs proceeded to cut – not remove – cut - all my gear from my body including, but not limited to, (that’s legal language ) my perfectly good boots, all my pants and jacket, and then for good measure my genuine “Harvard University” t-shirt, which was completely unnecessary.

I was so happy I was wearing clean underwear, because that was all that clothed me. And we all know what our dear mothers said about changing underwear. Mom was right on that day.

I will shorten this up now. The doctors at the hospital in Lexington, Nebraska were good, but somewhat disappointed because I was not seriously injured. I think they were planning on a life flight to Omaha, or better yet harvesting my organs so someone in Omaha could get a new liver.  When I was discharged I had on me only the tighty whities with which I had been admitted. So I was going to need new clothes and eventually a new riding outfit.

So here is where I got taken by KLIM. I am convinced my gear and armor saved my life, and more importantly my exceptional good looks and manly physique. Therefore, I would spare no expense when replacing the gear.

Remember what I said about the fit on the First Gear stuff? Well when I went to replace things the fit was no better on the high end First Gear stuff.  And this KLIM gear was all the rage. Plus it was obscenely expensive, so it had to be terrific. At least that was my thinking. In July 2012 I went shopping at the BMW rally in Sedalia Missouri, the Mecca of guys with disposable income looking for the “look” in geeky riding gear.

For those of you with limited knowledge of motorcycle riders in the USofA, Harley riders all wear black because they are on the way to the funeral of a friend who was not wearing a helmet. BMW riders look like florescent advertising. I have attached a picture of me in the KLIM Latitude outfit I bought. Kids, we are talking about more than $1000 of armor here. Just call me “Skywalker – Luke Skywalker.” And may the force be with you.

Anyway, I talked to the KLIM factory rep. He was working the BMW vendor area at the rally. I said I was concerned because there was no cold weather lining in the Latitude jacket or pants. The reply was “all the real riders are putting on this high tech (read expensive) layering and it will act as a cooling system as well as keep you warm.” The fit was very masculine, meaning that it was tight. Everyone said how well it fit, and I wanted to believe them, because I did not have any good gear left. So I bought scads of KLIM gear and the layers.

The significance of the KLIM factory rep, as opposed to retailers at the show, is that the guy had formerly been the rep for First Gear. And I had met him at a rally in 2009. Of course he was giving me the scoop on how much tougher and better the KLIM system was over competitors. Pure fiction.

In fact, this is the problem with KLIM. They made the jackets too small so that they appear form fitting, and I am not a big guy. In fact, I am downright skinny. Not only was the jacket too tight to put any real layering under it for cold weather riding, but they put a stiff, bulky, cheap piece of armor in the back which made it a pain in warm weather too.

The first time I went out in cold weather I knew the jacket was not a 4 season world traveler jacket. It was cold. Not cool. COLD.  I called KLIM and complained. I made some comments on their website, which inexplicably never popped up. And I threw money at trying to solve the problem by layering and buying another inner jacket. But that meant I had to remove the back armor. And that means I just defeated the purpose for which I bought this really expensive KLIM jacket in the first place.

This is problem with the jacket. It allows air to pass through the zippers, even though they are shielded and waterproof. The venting is poorly designed and always allows air migration as well. No matter what remedial layer was worn, the jacket was cold at any temperature less than 55F.

KLIM is a manufacturer of snowmobile gear. One could reasonably assume they would know how to make a motorcycle jacket with a quilted liner that did not get cold. Well they can’t, or at least don't. I will never buy another piece of gear from them because in my opinion the product is substandard for adventure motorcycle touring and priced well beyond superior gear made by First Gear and probably some others. My friends, we are talking twice the price and in some cases three time the price.

So this is what I did. I rode around in the KLIM jacket for two winters, and then I gave up and bought a First Gear Kilimanjaro. It is warm. It fits. And it cost less than half what the inferior KLIM Latitude cost. That is what I will wear on this trip. I have kept the KLIM pants because they did not leak and I can wear long underwear with them. This is also known as “cutting my losses”.

My goal is to not burn up the new jacket on the exhaust, or to have it cut from my body.

Saturday, March 1, 2014

A TALE OF FIVE VISAS














I have postponed writing this part of the blog until I had my passport safely back in my hands. It is important for people to know how to get visas for such a trip, and that generalizations about the process, length of visa, length of stay, cost, and providers are useless.

So this is what I did. I now have in my grimy little fist a US passport with a 3 year multi entry Russian Federation visa, good for up to 183 days in country.  They issued it  “действительна без фотографии” (“valid without photo”).  I am so happy I have been taking Russian for the past 7 months. I would have been completely freaked out (I do not know how to say that in Russian) if I had opened the passport and seen that no photo was embedded in the Russian visa.

Anyway, I sent my passport to Travisa in Washington DC back in November. This is their contact information. Travisa 1731 21st. St. NW  Washington, DC 20009 Phone: (202) 463-6166 Fax: (202) 293-1112 Business Hours: 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM. https://www.travisa.com/.

I originally decided to use Travisa because they are the portal for Azerbaijan Visas in the USA. I actually ended up getting my Azerbaijan visa over the internet using an agency in Kazahkstan called Stan Tours. But that is another part of the story.

The deal with the Russian visa is that they will not even look at an application if the date of first entry is more than 6 months in the future. My first date of entry was shown as June 1,so it got sent back. Then it sat for couple of weeks. But I got my 1st visa for Christmas. And I wanted the Russian visa first because I figured I could get to Mongolia across Russia and have a great trip even if other visas did not come through. It also worked well because it showed the next countries that Russia had cleared me – and given me this great visa. The total cost including agency fees was about $300, but it was not overwhelming for what I got. 
Oh I forgot to tell you. Making out the Russian visa application form is time consuming. The technical legal term for it is “sonofabitch”. But they wanted to know everywhere I had been in the past 10 years, and when. And for me that is a lot of work.

My minder at Travisa was Shavkat Safaev, but he has since moved on. My case was taken over by Diara Calhoun. She is a sweetheart and got the Tajikistan visa for me.

Moving on. Kazakhstan was next. It went rapidly. Once again I received a multiple entry visa for 30 days each visit good until June 20, 2016. Cost was about $250 including the agency fee. In theory the cost is $160 if you do it yourself. But use the agency. Otherwise you will end up having your passport in transit.

The way I did it was as one visa was being considered I was doing the paperwork for the next. Then when Travisa got my passport back the application for the next country was in the office. Travisa then did an immediate turn around and sent it on to the next embassy.

All the time this is going on I am trying to figure out how to get a Turkmenistan visa. Let me say right now, I do not have a Turkmen visa yet. This is the soft underbelly of my official paperwork. Turkmenistan is pretty tightly regulated. I would have needed a tourist visa. But that means I have to be on a tour. And I do not know when I will arrive. So Plan A is to apply for a transit visa in Baku, Azerbaijan. Then I take the boat to Turkmenbashi and tear across in Turkmenistan in 5 days, because that is the length of the visa. Stress?

But I do have an Uzbekistan Visa. Travisa did that one too. I forget the cost, but it was in the $200 range. I have a 3 entry visa, each good for 30 days. You will notice that I always get multiple entry. Well almost always. But I think it is worth it to be able to go back if things get dicey down the road. I do not want to be in position where I have to go on; and I want options. 

Uzbekistan went through fast.

While I was doing all this I was still stymied on the Azerbaijan visa. The website for Azerbaijan in the USA shows what appears to be a mandatory system for Americans. It isn’t.  I made a reservation at a hostel in Baku.
Jeyhun Shahbazov
General Manager 
Guest House Inn & Hostel
16/21 Azadlig ave.
Baku, Azerbaijan. 
Tel.: +99412 493 41 67
Fax: +99412 493 59 12
Mob:+99450 626 21 73

Then I contacted Stan Tours. David Berghof , david@stantours.com
STANtours Almaty / Ashgabat

They are good and efficient, but payment was by Western Union, $115. I needed an invitation not just the hotel. But it worked out. I got my visa by email. It comes in pdf or similar format and you print it out in color yourself. It took about 8 days.

And that brings us to Tajikistan. I thought “this cannot be so hard” as I already had four visas and things were going well time wise. Tajikistan took a while. I need what is called a GBAO permit to travel on the Pamir Highway. The Tajiks also wanted a separate letter with my itinerary and purpose. But it took about four weeks to get it all sorted out. Diara at Travisa was very patient during the process. I think the application was rejected twice and the passport sent back. But I finally got it. And I got the whole 45 days, the maximum permitted.
I had read other traveler tales of the Tajik visa. They went to the consulate in Istanbul and had the visa plus GBAO permit in an hour. So, there is a plan B. My fear was that I would get to Istanbul and not be able to get the visa. 

And just for information – not part of the five visas – for US citizens you get a Turkish visa over the  internet ($20) and it is instantaneous, no photo needed. Mongolia gives US citizens entry without a visa for 90 days.

Advice? Well, always search the official websites for each country. There is a lot of misinformation out there. The rules are different for each country and each nationality applying for a visa. And it is going to cost you money. That is just the way things are.
Fritz